French travel back to simpler time

French travel back to simpler time

Anne Richard and Helder Goncalves dance during a contest at Chez Fifi, a guinguette along the Marne River, east of Paris. They won second place. (Devorah Lauter, For The Times / June 29, 2011)

By Devorah Lauter, Los Angeles Times

June 28, 2011, 4:16 p.m.

Reporting from Champigny-sur-Marne, France—

A few feet from an overgrown path that hugs the banks of the still, green Marne River, two fishermen doze in a small wooden boat under the buzzing wings of insects. Awakened on a humid late afternoon, they raise a beer and shout, "Bonjour!"

A little farther on, the riverside path winds toward a tiny island covered with trees, and the muffled sound of music.

The trees break for a clearing, revealing a terrace set with red-and-white checkered tablecloths on picnic tables under wisteria-covered trellises. Two musicians play old French tunes on an accordion and guitar. Strings of colorful lights and paper lanterns glow against a darkening sky as guests arrive.

Cross a pale blue metal bridge and enter the past. The Ile du Martin-Pecheur guinguette brings to life the old open-air dance halls that ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,..............