This week we will look at traditional monsoon dishes from Bengal and Uttar Pradesh. While in Bengal, a state known for its rivers, fish forms the greater part of monsoon cuisine (for all other seasons, for that matter). UP has some special dishes, especially from Lucknow, that is best had during the rains.
Hilsa in mustard sauce
Ask any Bengali about what he or she loves the most and more often than not the answer will include Durga Puja, mishti (sweets) and hilsa. In fact, thanks to NRI demand, there is a steady flow of hilsa (ilish as it is locally called) from India to abroad, so much so that the local markets are often depleted. In fact, Bengalis have been known to actually get into fist fights over which river produces the best hilsa, the Ganga or the Padma in Bangladesh. Monsoon is the ideal time for hilsa as this is the time one gets the fish roe, which is a delicacy.
Ingredients
Six pieces of hilsa, cut crosswise from the stomach, so each shape resembles a hollow triangle. If you are lucky, you will get fish roe instead of the “hollow”.
1 tsp turmeric powder
½ tsp green chilli paste
3 cups of water
5 tsp mustard paste (grind the mustard powder with a couple of tablespoons of water)
2 tbsp mustard oil
Salt
5 green chillies, slit
Method
Heat the oil and fry the hilsa pieces for a couple of minutes. In a bowl, mix the turmeric, chilli paste and mustard paste with 2 cups of water. Strain directly over the fish as it is cooking. Add the slit green chillies and salt. Reduce flame and cook for another 4-5 minutes till the fish is done. Usually the gravy of this dish is quite thick. If you want a lighter sauce, add more water while the fish is cooking.
Baingan ki Boorani
This eggplant dish harks back to the time of the Nawabs of erstwhile Awadh. While predominantly cooked during the monsoons when new eggplants come to the market, it is also cooked during winters and served alongside whole raans with roti or Lucknowi biryani.
Ingredients
1 large eggplant, cut crosswise into circles
2 onions, sliced
1 cup yogurt
2 tbsp coriander powder
1½ tsp turmeric
2 ½ tbsp garlic paste, keep ½ tbsp aside
Salt
½ cup oil
Method
Mix the coriander powder, garlic paste and 2 tbsp of garlic paste in a bowl, add a pinch of salt and 1/3 cup water and mix. Set aside.
Fry the onions in half the oil, over a medium flame till they are dark brown and crisp. Remove and spread on absorbent kitchen paper.
Fry the eggplant slices on both sides till brown in the same oil, adding the remaining oil bit by bit as required. You might have to do this in batches. Remove and set aside. Add the coriander, turmeric and garlic paste mix to the fry pan and cook till the water dries up. Meanwhile, stir the yogurt in a bowl with the remaining garlic paste and a pinch of salt.
Before serving, place the eggplant circles on a large plate, sprinkle a bit of salt on them and spoon a bit of the coriander and garlic paste on each circle and spread it out. Cover the slices with dollops of yogurt and sprinkle the browned onions on top.
This dish should be served in room temperature.
